Commonly
used methods
- Method 2: Shoot long concrete
nails trhough end stud and into the concrete of the ICF wall
- Method 3: Glue the end
stud to the foam
Comments:
Peter Juen- SE Florida
Polysteel Inc.
Phone: 561-225-5404
Email: seflpolyst@aol.com
Some of our builders attach flashing metal or flattened drywall
c-channel horizontally between the furring strips on either side
of the partition wall. They attach 1 strip every 2-3 feet, then
screw the wall stud into that. This leaves them a lot of "wiggle
room" in exactly where they end up putting the interior wall. They
also don't have to plan out where the interior wall goes before
the pour, since the metal can be attached to the furring strips
afterward.
Pieter VanderWerf- Building
Works
Email: pvander@buildingworks.com
The fastest and easiest trick I've seen is to push J-bolts
into position at the end of the pour. Of course you have to have
the locations of the walls marked before the pour. But you don't
have to glue the bolt into place because the wet concrete holds
it. The contractor I saw do this pushed the bent end in and hooked
it around. When he realized he'd misplaced a couple, he pulled them
out (didn't seal the hole and no concrete leaked out) and pushed
them back in at the right location. Of course J-bolts are a bit
expensive, but this might work with other fasteners, too, like a
sill strap.
Rob Dykeman- ICF Information
Phone: 800-857-2324
Email: dykeman@sugar-river.net
I think mechanical attachment to the concrete is best. Just
gluing the end stud to the foam could let it flex around.
Bruce Westerlund - Medelpad
Construction
Phone: 517-743-5026
Email: medelpad@earthlink.net
I used 1/2" x 7" concrete anchors and a SDS rotary
hammer drill after the interior wall was up to attach the wall to
the ICF exterior wall .I figure at a cost of a dollar a piece for
the anchors that this worked out the best for my project.
|