Contents Overlaying ICFs onto existing frame plans Changing wall lengths and opening positions to match ICF break points Picking the crew Site Preparation Making bucks Setting the first course Corner braces Stacking sequence Setting vertical rebar Aligning and plumbing walls Holding down forms against floating Building a floor deck Concrete placement equipment Pour pattern Pouring a gable end Consolidating concrete Attaching roof members Attaching interior walls to ICF walls Making electrical cutouts Interior finish Attaching trim and fixtures Exterior stucco Attaching exterior siding Miscellaneous

Commonly used methods

• Method 1: Place 2X block over wall and tap it to move concrete inside

• Method 2: Place hand sander over wall and run

• Method 3: Use commercial internal vibrator

Comments:

Pieter VanderWerf- Building Works
Email: pvander@buildingworks.com
I have seen pours with no consolidation. The contractors have developed custom mixes with a slump of 6.5 to 7 inches. They all use a midrange plasticizer to get this slump and still maintain concrete strength. They are very careful to have the mix come to the site at full slump and NOT add any water. They tap the wall occasionally to make sure the fill is complete, but I saw no real vibration anywhere. They claim they are confident the fill is complete because they have on occasion stripped off parts of the formwork or pulled off a buck and saw all good concrete. The cost of the mix that they quoted was a dollar or two per yard more than standard pump mix. For that cost, they saved a little labor and maybe avoided some risk to the forms from vibration.

Jean-Marc Bouvier- J-M Bouvier Carpentry
Email: jmbouvier@sympatico.ca
For myself, I've found that a reciprocating saw works well. Following behind the pour, we run the base plate of the saw up and down the webs with some pressure. It may not be the quickest method, but it's alot easier on the wall. An internal vibrator in the wrong hands can leave nasty results. We pay a little more attention to openings and lintels, but that  is good practice with what ever method used. As previously stated, proper slump is important, but I find that the placement of the concrete will dictate the success of the pour. Over time we made up a removeable head that we attach to the saw to add a bit more " punch ".